How to Hang Curtains: Step-by-Step Guide | Ona

Updated October 2026 · By the Ona team

The short answer: Mount the rod 4–6″ above the window frame, or higher for a taller look, with the brackets 6–10″ outside each side. Screw the brackets into wood or rated anchors, and add a center bracket on rods over about 60″. Load the curtains, set the rod, and aim the hem ½″ above the floor or just touching it.

Good curtains can still look wrong when they're hung low, narrow or short. This guide covers the whole job: where the rod goes, how to fix it to your wall, how to pick a length that lands where you want, and how each type of curtain goes on the rod.

Ona makes curtains, not hardware. We don't sell rods, rings, hooks or brackets, so these steps work with whatever hardware you choose.

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The numbers at a glance

What Rule of thumb Why it matters
Rod height 4–6″ above the frame (classic), about 10″ (taller), or just below the ceiling A higher rod makes the window read taller
Bracket position 6–10″ outside each side of the frame Open curtains stack beside the glass, not over it
Rod length Frame width + 16–24″ Leaves 8–12″ of rod past each side
Brackets 2 for rods up to about 60″; add a center bracket beyond that Stops the rod bowing in the middle
Fabric width 2× the rod width in total flat fabric (1.5× lighter, 2.5× fuller) Gives even, generous folds
Hem ½″ float, floor kiss, or a 2″ soft break A clean, finished line
Distance from the wall Clear the deepest trim, blind or handle by about 1″ Lets the folds hang straight

Ona's curtain calculator uses the same 2× fullness default. Enter your rod width and the height from the fabric top to the floor, and it suggests panel sizes and quantities.

What you need

Tools

  • Steel tape measure and a pencil
  • Level (24″ or longer), or a laser level
  • Drill/driver with a small pilot bit, plus a masonry bit for brick, plaster or concrete
  • Stud finder (one with a wire-detect mode is better)
  • Step ladder, and a helper for rods over about 60″

Hardware and supplies

  • Curtain rod with brackets and finials, sized to your window (see the rod-length rule above)
  • Screws and wall anchors rated for your wall and the curtains' weight
  • Rings with clips, or rings and pin hooks, if your curtains need them
  • The curtains themselves, plus tiebacks or holdbacks if you want them

Measure before you buy anything. The rod, the length and the heading all depend on each other.

How to hang curtains in 8 steps

Allow about an hour for one window with a helper. Wide windows and masonry walls take longer.

Step 1: Choose your hem line and curtain length

Decide where the hem should land before you buy a rod or curtains. Most rooms look best with a ½″ float above the floor or a hem that just touches it.

Then choose the stock length closest to that drop. With ready-made curtains, it's easier to move the rod than the hem, so let the rod height follow the length you pick. The header-rise formula below shows exactly where the rod goes for each length.

Step 2: Mark the rod height

Pick one of three lines:

  • Classic: 4–6″ above the window frame.
  • Taller: about 10″ above the frame.
  • Ceiling to floor: just below the ceiling or crown molding, leaving room for the bracket.

Measure up from the top of the frame at both sides and make a light pencil mark. Check the two marks with a level. For more on choosing the line, see how high to hang curtains.

Step 3: Mark the bracket positions

Place each end bracket 6–10″ outside the window frame, on your height line. Leave 2–3″ of rod past each bracket for the finial and for the last ring or grommet.

On rods longer than about 60″, mark a center bracket at the midpoint. Hold each bracket on its mark, level it, and pencil the screw holes.

Brackets hold the rod a little above or below their screw holes. Measure that offset once and shift your marks, so the top of the rod (not the bracket) lands on your line.

Step 4: Check the wall and choose fixings

Run a stud finder over each mark. In many homes the wall right above a window is framed with a wooden header, so screws there often hit wood. Drill a small test hole to be sure. Where you miss wood, use anchors rated for the load. If your stud finder has a wire-detect mode, use it before drilling.

Wall What to use Tip
Wood stud or window header Wood screws that bite at least 1″ into the wood The strongest fixing; no anchor needed
Drywall, no stud Self-drilling or toggle-style anchors rated for the weight Use toggle bolts for heavy, lined or wide curtains
Plaster and lath Drill slowly with a masonry bit; screw into the lath or stud, or use toggle bolts A strip of painter's tape over the mark helps stop chipping
Brick, block or concrete Hammer drill, masonry bit, then masonry plugs or concrete screws Drill into the brick, not the mortar joint, where you can
Metal studs Toggle bolts or self-tapping metal-stud screws Plastic expansion anchors hold poorly here
Solid wood window trim Short wood screws into the trim's flat face Only for light curtains; it leaves holes in the trim

For drilling, anchors and rod sizes in more detail, see how to install a curtain rod.

Step 5: Drill and mount the brackets

Drill pilot holes, set any anchors flush with the wall, and screw on the brackets. Leave the screws a half-turn loose until every bracket lines up, then tighten them.

Lay the rod across the brackets and check it with a level once more before you load the curtains.

Step 6: Put the curtains on the rod

Take the finial off one end and load the curtains. How you do it depends on the heading:

  • Grommets: thread the rod in and out of the rings in the fabric (method).
  • Back tabs: slide the rod through the fabric loops on the back (method).
  • Rod pocket: feed the rod through the sewn channel (method).
  • Rings or hooks: slide the rings on, then clip or hook the fabric to them (rings, hooks).

For a pair, load both panels with their outer edges toward the ends of the rod. Put the outermost ring or grommet of each panel outside its end bracket, so the outer edge stays in place.

Step 7: Set the rod and check the hem

Lift the rod into the brackets, with a helper on long rods. Tighten any set screws and replace the finials.

Check the hem at both edges and in the middle. Floors are rarely level, so for a float, set the ½″ gap at the highest point of the floor.

Step 8: Dress and train the folds

Spread each panel evenly and pull the folds to the same depth. If the sewn-in care label allows it, steam out any packing creases.

To train the folds, gather each panel into even folds, tie it loosely with soft fabric strips in two or three places, and leave it for 2–3 days. The fabric relaxes into the shape. For more, see how to train curtains.

How far from the window should curtains hang?

Hang the rod 4–6″ above the frame (or higher for a taller look) and put the brackets 6–10″ outside each side. Set the rod far enough from the wall to clear trim and blinds by about an inch.

Distance Typical range Notes
Above the frame 4–6″ classic · about 10″ taller · just below the ceiling These are the three lines in Ona's measuring guide
Bracket outside each side 6–10″ Go at least 3–4″ where wall space is tight
Rod past each side, in total 8–12″ Includes the 2–3″ of rod past each bracket
Out from the wall Clear the deepest trim, blind or handle by about 1″ Use deeper or double brackets over blinds
Above the floor ½″ float · 0″ floor kiss · 2″ resting on the floor Measured from the fabric top, not the rod

Rod length, worked out: rod length = frame width + 16–24″. A 36″ window takes a rod of about 52–60″. A 72″ sliding door takes about 88–96″.

Lined and velvet curtains gather into a wider bundle when open than sheers do, so give them the longer overhang. For window-by-window heights, see how high to hang curtains.

Getting the length right: the header-rise formula

Ready-made curtain lengths are measured from the top of the fabric to the hem. So first work out where the fabric top will sit. That depends on the heading: grommets and back tabs stand above the rod, while rings and clips hang the fabric below it.

Header rise is the distance from the top of the rod to the top of the fabric.

  • Grommets and back tabs: the fabric stands above the rod. The rise is often 1–2″, but it varies by product.
  • Rod pocket: the fabric wraps over the rod, so the rise is small, unless there's a ruffle above the pocket.
  • Rings with clips, or pin hooks on rings: the fabric hangs below the rod by the ring and clip drop. Treat that as a negative rise.

To measure it, hang one panel on your rod, or on a broom handle of similar thickness. Measure from the top of the rod to the top of the fabric.

``` Fabric-top height above the floor = listed length + hem gap float: + ½″ floor kiss: 0 soft break: − 2″

Top of rod = fabric-top height − header rise with rings or clips, add the ring drop instead ```

Fabric-top height for each Ona length

Listed length Float (½″ gap) Floor kiss Soft break (2″ on the floor)
63″ 63½″ 63″ 61″
72″ 72½″ 72″ 70″
84″ 84½″ 84″ 82″
90″ 90½″ 90″ 88″
96″ 96½″ 96″ 94″
108″ 108½″ 108″ 106″
120″ 120½″ 120″ 118″

63″ and 72″ curtains usually end near or below the sill rather than at the floor. Use the same math, with the point where you want the hem in place of the floor.

Worked example. Say you have an 8-foot (96″) ceiling, and the top of the window frame is 80″ from the floor. Your grommet curtains have a 1½″ header rise (an example figure; measure yours).

  • 84″ curtains, float: fabric top at 84½″, so the top of the rod sits at 83″. That's only 3″ above the frame, which reads a little low.
  • 90″ curtains, floor kiss: fabric top at 90″, so the top of the rod sits at 88½″, or 8½″ above the frame. That's a balanced, slightly taller line.
  • 96″ curtains, floor kiss: fabric top at 96″, so the top of the rod sits at 94½″. That's near the ceiling, so check the bracket fits below it.

The same window gives three looks. Choose the length first, then set the rod. With clip rings that drop the fabric 2″, add 2″ to each rod height instead.

Ona lists each length from the fabric top to the hem, as the measuring guide and calculator do. Header rise for each Ona style is not published yet.

Curtain headings compared

The heading is the top of the curtain, and it decides how the curtain meets the rod.

Heading How it hangs Opening and closing Look Best for Ona option
Grommet Rod passes through metal rings set in the top hem Easy Deep, even, modern folds Curtains you open every day Grommet pair, wide panel, velvet pair
Back tab Rod passes through hidden fabric loops on the back Moderate Soft, pleat-like folds; rod hidden from the front A tailored look in bedrooms and living rooms Back-tab pair
Rod pocket Rod threads through a sewn channel along the top Stiff Gathered, shirred top Curtains that mostly stay put; tension rods Back-tab pair (pocket option)
Tab top Visible fabric loops over the rod Drags Casual Curtains you rarely move —
Clip rings Clips grip the top edge; rings ride the rod Very easy Tailored, with rings on show Flat, back-tab or rod-pocket curtains you want to move often Works with the back-tab pair
Pin hooks or pleat hooks Hooks in the heading hang from ring eyelets, a traverse rod or track gliders Very easy Classic pleats Pinch pleat and pleat-tape curtains —
Track Hooks or clips hang from gliders in a wall or ceiling track Easiest Clean, with no visible rod Ceiling mounts, wide spans, bays Not for grommet or rod-pocket curtains

For the full comparison, see grommet vs rod pocket vs back tab curtains.

How to hang grommet curtains

Thread the rod in and out of the grommets so the folds alternate front and back. Start from the front at the outer edge, so the edge turns toward the wall. Then spread the grommets evenly and set the rod in its brackets.

  1. Check the fit. Leave at least ¼″ between the rod and the inside of the grommets so the curtain glides.
  2. Start at the outer edge. With the finial off, push the rod through the first grommet from the front of the curtain.
  3. Alternate. Go through the next grommet from behind, then the next from the front, and so on.
  4. Finish the edges. With an even number of grommets, both edges finish behind the rod and fold back toward the wall. Most grommet curtains have an even count.
  5. Anchor the outer edge. Put the outermost grommet of each panel between the end bracket and the finial.
  6. Shape the folds. Space the grommets evenly and pull every front fold forward to the same depth. Train the folds if they flare.

Grommets can't pass a center bracket. On long rods, each panel stays on its own side of the support. For more detail, including hanging two panels together, see how to hang grommet curtains.

How to hang back tab curtains

Slide the rod through the fabric tabs sewn across the back of the heading, skipping the rod pocket if the curtain has one. The fabric between the tabs falls forward into soft, pleat-like folds and hides the rod from the front.

  1. Find the tabs. Look for the row of fabric loops spaced across the back of the top hem.
  2. Thread the tabs only. With the finial off, pass the rod through each tab in turn. Don't go through the pocket at the same time.
  3. Shape the folds. Push the curtain along the rod so the fabric between each pair of tabs bows forward evenly.
  4. Set the rod and pull the folds to the same depth.

Back-tab curtains slide less freely than grommets. For curtains you open every day, clip rings onto the top edge, or put pin hooks into the tabs and hang them from rings.

The fabric above the tabs stands above the rod, so measure the header rise before you set the rod height. For more, see how to hang back tab curtains.

How to hang rod pocket curtains

Gather the curtain onto the rod through the sewn channel along the top, working the fabric evenly along it. Rod-pocket curtains look best left in place, because the fabric grips the rod.

  1. Check the fit. As a rule of thumb, the rod's diameter should be no more than about half the pocket's flat depth. A 3″ pocket fits a rod up to about 1½″.
  2. Protect the fabric. Slip a small plastic bag or a sock over the rod end so it doesn't snag.
  3. Feed and gather. Push the rod through a few inches at a time, bunching the fabric behind it.
  4. Even it out. Spread the gathers evenly from end to end, then set the rod.

Rod pockets suit tension rods inside a window frame and curtains you open with tiebacks or holdbacks. If you open your curtains every day, choose grommets or rings instead.

How to hang curtains with rings

Slide the rings onto the rod first, then clip them to the top edge of the curtain: one at each corner and the rest every 4–6″. Put the outermost ring between the bracket and the finial so the edge stays put.

How many rings per panel? Divide the flat panel width by your spacing, round up, then add one.

Flat panel width Rings at 5″ spacing Range at 4–6″ spacing
42″ 10 8–12
52″ 12 10–14
70″ 15 13–19

Buy one or two spares. Ring pack sizes vary, so count for every panel before you buy.

  • Ring size: choose rings with an inner diameter at least ½″ wider than the rod, so they glide.
  • Clip placement: clip just below the top edge, on the back, so the clips don't show from the room. Keep every clip the same distance down so the top stays level.
  • Center brackets: standard rings can't pass a center bracket. Use pass-through brackets or C-shaped rings if the curtains must cross it.
  • Height: rings and clips lower the fabric, often by about 1½–2½″. Measure the drop and add it to your rod height.

Clip rings suit flat, back-tab and rod-pocket curtains. They aren't usually used on grommet curtains.

How to hang curtains with hooks

Hooks go into the back of the heading and hang from ring eyelets, a traverse rod or track gliders. On a decorative rod with rings, set each pin hook so its top sits about ¼–½″ below the top edge of the fabric. The ring then just meets the top of the curtain.

  • Pin-on hooks (drapery pins) pierce the back of a flat or back-tab heading. Space them every 4–8″ on flat curtains. On pleated curtains, use one per pleat plus one at each end.
  • Slip-in hooks slot into the pockets of pleater tape sewn across the heading.
  • Hook height sets the curtain height. The lower the pin sits in the heading, the higher the fabric rides. Set pins lower if you want the heading to cover a traverse rod or track.

Push each pin into the heading's back layer, not through the face fabric, so nothing shows from the room.

Which curtains go on a track?

Tracks need hooks or clips. That means pinch-pleat, ripple-fold and pleat-tape curtains, or flat curtains on clip gliders. Grommet and rod-pocket curtains can't go on a track. Back-tab curtains can, with pin hooks in the tabs.

How to hang heavy curtains

Heavy curtains need a sturdier rod (about 1″ in diameter or more), brackets screwed into wood or held by toggle anchors, and a support at least every 48″. Weigh the curtains first, and choose hardware rated for more than that.

  • Weigh them. Stand on a bathroom scale holding the curtains, then subtract your own weight.
  • Choose the rod. Use solid steel or wood, about 1–1⅜″ thick. Thin telescoping rods bow at the joint on long spans.
  • Add supports. Keep brackets no more than 36–48″ apart, and fix them into studs or the window header where you can. In drywall, use toggle bolts rated for the load.
  • Match the rings. Use metal or wood rings with strong clips, sized to glide freely.
  • Skip the shortcuts. Tension rods and adhesive hooks aren't made for heavy, lined curtains.
  • For velvet, hang every panel the same way up. The sheen changes with the direction of the pile, so mismatched panels look like two colors.

Ona's grommet and back-tab curtains are lined, and the velvet pair is unlined.

How to hang curtains in a bay window

Use a bay rod with angled connectors, a separate straight rod for each section, or one straight rod across the opening. Size the curtains for each straight section. Remember that grommets, back tabs and rod pockets can't slide past corner joints or center brackets.

Option How it works Works with Watch for
Bay rod with angled connectors One continuous rod with adjustable corner joints Pass-through rings, or curtains that stay in one section Grommet, back-tab and rod-pocket curtains can't cross the joints
One rod per section Three or more straight rods, ending at each corner Any heading Each section needs its own curtains; corners leave small gaps
One straight rod across the opening The rod spans the front of the bay, wall to wall Any heading Simplest; leaves the bay open behind; needs center supports
Tension rods inside the frame One rod per window section Light rod-pocket or back-tab curtains Not for heavy or lined curtains
Bendable track A wall or ceiling track shaped to the bay Hook or glider headings Not for grommet or rod-pocket curtains

Plan the curtains section by section. Measure each run along the rod line, not the glass, and apply your fullness to each one. A common setup puts one curtain at each outer end and a stationary curtain at each corner.

Corner windows work the same way: use two rods that meet at a corner connector, or two rods that stop just short of the corner. Put a stationary panel at the corner to hide the joint.

Ona doesn't sell bay rods or shaped curtains.

How to hang blackout curtains to reduce light gaps

Take the rod higher and wider than the window, set it close to the wall, and have the curtains meet tightly in the middle. Light gets around the top, sides and center even when the fabric itself blocks light.

  • Go wide and high. Overlap the frame by at least 3–4″ on every side, and more if you can. For the darkest room, Ona's guide extends coverage above and beyond both sides of the window.
  • Close the side gap. Use a wraparound rod that curves back to the wall. Or put the outer grommet or ring outside the bracket, so the edge folds back to the wall.
  • Close the center. Choose enough width that the curtains meet with fabric to spare. Small magnets or clips can hold the two leading edges together.
  • Go to the floor. A floor-length hem stops light spilling underneath.

Ona's grommet pair, wide panel and back-tab pair use supplier-listed 100% blackout fabric. That describes the fabric, not the room: light can still enter at the top, sides and center. The velvet pair is room-darkening, not blackout. Browse blackout curtains, or read how to block light around curtains.

How to hang curtains professionally

Professionals hang curtains high and wide, turn the outer edges back to the wall, keep the hem level at a ½″ float or a light kiss, and train the folds. These eight details make the difference.

  1. High and wide. At least 4–6″ above the frame and 6–10″ beyond each side, so the window reads larger.
  2. Enough fabric. About 2× the rod width in total flat fabric. Skimpy curtains look stretched when closed.
  3. Returned edges. The outer edge folds back to the wall, from the last grommet or ring outside the bracket, or with a wraparound rod.
  4. A level hem, not just a level rod. Measure the hem at three points. In older rooms where the ceiling or trim slopes, split the difference so the rod looks straight to the eye.
  5. Even spacing. Grommets, rings and hooks spaced evenly, with every fold the same depth.
  6. Trained folds. Tied loosely for 2–3 days after hanging.
  7. No creases. Steam out packing lines, if the sewn-in care label allows it.
  8. Hardware in scale. A thicker rod for tall, wide or heavy curtains, and a center support you can't see sagging.

For styling ideas beyond hanging, see how to make curtains look expensive. To pair a sheer with a heavier curtain, see how to layer curtains.

Can you hang curtains without drilling?

Yes, for light curtains. Use a tension rod inside the window frame, or brackets that clamp or tap onto the top of the window frame, and stay under their weight limit.

Heavier lined curtains usually need screwed brackets. See how to hang curtains without drilling for renter-friendly options, and how to hang curtains from the ceiling for ceiling brackets and tracks.

Common curtain-hanging mistakes and how to fix them

Mistake What you see Fix
Rod just above the frame The window looks short and the ceiling feels low Raise the rod 4–6″ or more, and choose a longer length
Rod too narrow Open curtains cover the glass Move the brackets 6–10″ outside the frame
Too little fabric Flat, stretched curtains when closed Aim for 2× the rod width in total flat fabric
Hem floating too high A gap of several inches above the floor Lower the rod, or choose the next length up and raise the rod to suit
Deep puddle on curtains you use The hem drags and gathers dust Use a float or a floor kiss on working curtains
Sagging rod A bow in the middle Add a center bracket, or use a thicker rod
Brackets pulling out Tilting brackets, widening holes Re-mount into wood, or use toggle anchors
Uneven or flaring folds Gaps at the edges; hems kick out Re-space the grommets or rings, then train the folds
Rod pocket on daily-use curtains The fabric fights the rod Switch to grommets, or add clip rings

How Ona curtains hang

Ona makes grommet and back-tab curtains that hang straight on a curtain rod. Rods, rings and hooks aren't included, and Ona doesn't sell hardware.

Ona style Heading In the set Width per flat panel Lengths
Linen Texture Blackout Grommet Pair Metal grommets; lined 1 pair · 2 panels 42″ or 52″ 63–96″ (42″ wide); 63–108″ (52″ wide)
Wide Grommet Panel Metal grommets; lined 1 panel 70″ 90″, 96″, 108″
Velvet Room-Darkening Grommet Pair Metal grommets; unlined 1 pair · 2 panels 52″ 63–108″ (sizes vary by color)
100% Blackout Back-Tab Pair Hidden back tabs and a rod pocket; lined 1 pair · 2 panels 52″ 63–120″

"Blackout" in these names means supplier-listed 100% blackout fabric. Light can still enter at the top, sides and center. The velvet pair is room-darkening, not blackout.

All sizes are flat dimensions per panel, and folds reduce the width covered. At Ona's default 2× fullness:

  • One 42″ pair covers a rod up to 42″.
  • One 52″ pair covers a rod up to 52″.
  • Two 70″ wide panels cover a rod up to 70″.
  • Two 52″ pairs cover a rod up to 104″.

The back-tab pair hangs two ways. Use the hidden tabs for clean, tailored folds, or the rod pocket for a gathered top. Linen texture describes the look of the face fabric, not its fiber.

Buy 2, get 1 free, plus a bonus 20% off 4+ eligible items. Both discounts apply automatically and they stack. Free standard shipping to US addresses is shown at checkout, and returns are accepted for damaged, defective or incorrect items only.

Find your size, then choose your curtains. Enter your rod width (without finials) and the height from the fabric top to the floor in the curtain calculator.

Shop grommet curtains · Shop back tab curtains

Frequently asked questions

How do you hang curtains step by step?

Choose your length, mark the rod 4–6″ or more above the frame, and mark brackets 6–10″ outside each side. Mount the brackets into wood or rated anchors, load the curtains onto the rod, set it in the brackets, and train the folds for 2–3 days.

How far from the window should curtains hang?

Hang the rod 4–6″ above the frame and put the brackets 6–10″ beyond each side, so the rod runs 8–12″ past the window. Set it far enough from the wall to clear trim and blinds by about an inch.

How high above the window should a curtain rod be?

Usually 4–6″ above the frame for a classic look, about 10″ for a taller look, or just below the ceiling for a ceiling-to-floor line. Pick the curtain length first, then set the rod height to suit.

When hanging curtains, which side faces out?

The finished face goes toward the room. The folded side hems, any lining, and the tabs on a back-tab curtain face the window.

How far from the floor should curtains hang?

Most curtains look best ½″ above the floor (a float) or just touching it (a floor kiss). A soft break adds about 2″ that rests on the floor, and suits curtains you don't open often.

How many rings do I need per curtain panel?

Divide the flat panel width by 4–6″, round up, and add one. A 52″ panel takes about 10–14 rings. Put one ring outside each end bracket.

Do curtains need rings?

No. Grommet, back-tab, rod-pocket and tab-top curtains hang straight on the rod. Rings are for flat curtains you want to clip, for pin-hook headings on a decorative rod, or for making back-tab curtains slide more easily.

Can you hang grommet curtains with hooks?

You can, by hanging the grommets from S-hooks on rings, but grommets are designed to slide straight on a rod. Hooks add drop and can make the folds uneven.

What type of curtains go on a track?

Curtains with hooks or clips: pinch-pleat, ripple-fold or pleat-tape headings, or flat curtains on clip gliders. Grommet and rod-pocket curtains can't go on a track.

How do I stop curtains from sliding along the rod?

Put the outer grommet or ring outside the end bracket so the edge stays put. Add a rod stop or a small rubber ring behind it, or use holdbacks. If curtains stick instead, wipe the rod clean or switch to rings that are wider than the rod.

Do tab top curtains slide easily?

Not very. Fabric tabs drag on the rod, so tab-top curtains suit panels you rarely move. A smooth metal rod helps, and clip rings make them glide.

Can you hang curtains too high?

Yes. If the rod is so high that the curtains stop short of the floor, or so far above a small window that they look detached, it's too high. Go as high as your curtain length allows, up to just below the ceiling or crown molding.

How do you hang curtains behind a couch?

Pull the couch a few inches away from the wall so the curtains can hang straight to the floor. If the couch must sit tight against the wall, use stationary curtains stacked to the sides, or a length that ends just above the couch back.

Do Ona curtains come with a rod or rings?

No. Ona sells curtains only: no rods, rings, hooks or brackets. The grommet curtains slide straight onto a rod, and the back-tab pair uses its tabs or rod pocket.

How do you wash curtains with metal rings or grommets?

Take off any removable rings and clips first. Grommets are fixed to the fabric, so follow the sewn-in care label for washing and drying.

How this guide was written

This guide uses the fit rules in Ona's measuring guide and curtain calculator: 2× fullness by default, measuring from the fabric top, a ½″ float, floor kiss or 2″ soft break, and rod lines at 4–6″, about 10″ and near the ceiling. The installation steps follow common practice.

Ona hasn't tested third-party rods, rings, hooks or anchors. Always follow your hardware maker's instructions and weight ratings. Room images on Ona's site are styling visualizations unless labeled otherwise.

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